If you haven’t read my Part One and Two of Sponge Roller Setting then make sure you catch up! Perfecting the art of putting your rollers in is crucial to a good set. Catch up here-
Sponge Roller Setting Part 1- Rolling!
Sponge Roller Setting Part 2- Problem Solving!
Now we are onto Part 3- The Brush Out!
There are several different ways to brush out a wet set, this is merely one of them and the way I tend to do mine. Bear in mind that if you have longer hair than me (see Part 1 for a picture of my hair down and strait) then this method may not work as well for you but do give it a try. Also for those of you that are interested in how my hair is cut, I did this post last year that talked about my haircut – although my hair is a couple of inches longer now.
So, onto the brush out! You’ll need a few things handy for this-
Fine tooth tail comb
Start by taking out your rollers and try to keep them in the ringlets as much as possible so that you have minimal frizz.
You’ll end up looking like a 5 year old whose grandmother put her hair in rags for a dance recital but that’s ok, it’ll get better!
If at this point, the ends of your hair already look frizzy, then you really need to practice rolling the ends in neatly. This frizz is caused by ‘fish hooks’ as I call them or when the ends aren’t rolled properly- I talk about this in both Part 1 and Part 2 and the best way to avoid this is to tuck the ends under with your tail comb.
Now it’s time to start the teasing… ALL OF THE TEASING!
A lot of you have mentioned that you get a lot of frizz in the brush out and it occurred to me that I don’t actually ‘brush’ all my hair out. I would if I want a smoother, longer look, but for this I actually start with teasing.
I like to use a fine tooth comb for this part as it gives me denser teasing and I find it easier to get right to the roots. If you’ve used a product like sea salt spray on the roots prior to rolling as mentioned in Part 1, then this part should be a breeze. If you didn’t, spray each section as you go with a light hold hairspray or else your teasing won’t stay.
I start at the crown taking a large horizontal section, tease right at the roots and then work my way down and around the head.
At the bottom sections of the hair, I tease up the section of the hair a little further to help shorten the length of my hair.
For the front sweep, I do even more teasing taking sections both vertically and horizontally to create a veritable birds nest. But in order to achieve a sky high front sweep, you need ALL the backcombing!
Once everything is looking sufficiently voluminous and cave-woman worthy, time to get out your postiche brush to smooth things over.
I like to start with smoothing down one side and securing it with a slide comb or bobby pin.
Now you are going to work your way around the head, smoothing the top layer down with your brush (note: SMOOTHING not BRUSHING meaning light pressure) and placing duckbill clips around the head. You can spray as you smooth if need be too.
When you get round to the other side, create the front sweep so you can put the last duckbill clip in. Smooth the top over, using your hand to help keep it in place. and to mould the shape around it. Spray lightly as you go and continue to brush down and gently twist the ends outwards at the bottom, clipping it into place.
To be honest with you, try to go with what the hair wants to do. Sometimes my front sweeps rolls more inwards than outwards or does other weird and wonderful things. Instead of trying to force it to do something completely different, try to go with it if it’s being stubborn.
Now that all the duckbill clips are in place, lightly tease the bottom of your hair up to create volume and fill in any gaps. I know it sounds crazy but it works! Alternatively, you can brush this down if you want a smoother look.
I tend to use a few bobby pins to pin up longer bits of hair- if you can find them, try to get the ones that are matte grippy like sand paper as they won’t slide out. Mine are by a Australian brand called Glide and you can’t buy from their website unless you are a hairdresser with a registered account but if you search for matte bobby pins on the internet, something might come up.
This next part is life changing! Spray your hair with a good strong hairspray (I use Davines More Inside Strong Spray) and then blowdry that section you sprayed lightly with a blow dryer. Have it on warm and the lowest setting for air-flow and preferably a diffuser- I broke my diffuser so have a setting hair net over the top of the nozzle.
Do this in sections, really focussing on the underside of your hair. Once I’ve done it all, I usually go back and put another layer on the front bits just to really hold them in place. I also spray the inside of my front sweep to ensure that doesn’t move either. This is such a great trick to really make your hairstyle last the day- just be aware that it seriously glues your hair together more than usual so be prepared to give it a good scrub with shampoo on hair washing day!
Take the duckbill clips out and re-spray again for good luck.
And there you have it! That is how I brush out my sponge roller sets! I like it short with smoothness on top and curly at the bottom, plus it stays in place really well!
Tomorrow I will be posting Part 4- more problem solving answers to issues with this process so stay tuned!
x Miss Victory Violet
Categories: Hair and Beauty